Is Vogue Still the Authority, or Just the Archive?

By: Sheza Qasim, Assistant Editorial Director Edited by: Marissa Wrubleski

As one of the most influential fashion publications in the world and one that has long profited from Black creativity, Vogue has always done something to celebrate Black History Month every February. But this year, there was nothing. No feature, no acknowledgment and no social media post marking Black History Month. Does this symbolize something bigger? It could prove that Vogue doesn't set the trends anymore, but instead acts as an archive of what it once was. 

Fashion does not exist without Black influence. From streetwear to haute couture; beauty trends to music-driven aesthetics, Black creatives shape what the industry sells back to us every season. Designers borrow from Black subcultures. Runways replicate what Black communities have innovated for decades. Yet when the calendar turns to February, a month dedicated to honoring Black history and impact, the absence is glaring.

The magazine itself has been on a downfall for the past couple years due to a lack of creativity. In the past, Vogue covers were bold and new; though in recent years, it seems like every cover is a celebrity against a solid background. The magazine had responded to the downfall by making leadership changes. Last June, Vogue Editor-in-Chief, Anna Wintour stepped down and was replaced by Chloe Malle. 

The loss in popularity can also be traced to the rise of social media. Instead of turning to magazines, Gen-Z tends to turn to their socials  and look at their favorite fashion influencers. Social media creators feel personal to users , due to their relatability and ability to reach niche audiences on social media. As fashion becomes more perpetual with its trends, and harder to keep up with, it makes sense why Vogue is always ten steps behind. 

Even if Vogue is up-to-date, it seems like there's always something off. In an August 2025 issue, readers were shocked to find AI models gracing the pages in a high-profile Guess advertisement. While the brand claimed it was a move toward digital innovation, the backlash was swift. Longtime subscribers took to social media to announce they were canceling their subscriptions, citing the "uncanny valley" perfection of the models—flawless skin, perfectly symmetrical features, and not a single hair out of place.

Adding to the magazine's identity crisis is the encroaching shadow of billionaires. Rumors have extensively whispered that Jeff Bezos is eyeing a takeover of Condé Nast–or at the very least–purchasing Vogue as a high-fashion "gift" for his wife, Lauren Sánchez. These rumors reached a fever pitch after Sanchez appeared on a digital cover and Bezos was named a lead donor for the 2026 Met Gala themed "Costume Art."

When the primary gatekeepers of fashion are no longer visionary editors but billionaires looking for cultural "clout," the soul of the magazine evaporates. The concern isn't just about ownership; it’s about the shift from curating culture to buying it. Ultimately, the silence regarding Black History Month is more than just a missed opportunity, it’s a symptom of a legacy brand that has lost its popularity. 

While Vogue will always be an iconic name, its days of gatekeeping "the next big thing" are over. If they continue to sideline the very creators who have built the industry’s foundation, they aren’t just losing their relevance—they’re losing their pulse.

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