Why Are All Creative Directors Men?

By: Sheza Qasim, Senior Writer Edited by: Lianna Gourmos

The Fashion Institute of Technology is 82 percent women, Parsons School of design is 70 percent women, and London College of Fashion is 76 percent women; so why are women so underrepresented as the heads of fashion brands? More and more women are graduating with fashion related degrees each year, yet they are stuck working entry level sales positions while men take on positions of power.  

This imbalance isn’t related to talent—it’s because of who’s allowed to lead. Fashion, like many other fields of work, is still built on hierarchies that favor men in positions of authority. Many women in the industry face slower promotions, are funneled into “feminine” departments like PR or merchandising, or are pushed to work retail. 

The "glass ceiling” exists in all fields, but is very prominent in the fashion world. “Glass Ceiling” refers to the barriers to advance in a profession. This especially affects women and minorities. Women in fashion fields can get near the top, but there are barriers preventing them from becoming CEOs or creative directors. Even if they do get in higher positions, women spend a lot of time advocating for their ideas and hoping to be heard by their team, and end up getting overshadowed by the men on the team anyway. 

A study conducted by the British Fashion Council discovered that 14 percent of creative directors of brands in Europe and North America are women, and only one percent are from minority backgrounds. However, women are spending the most money when it comes to fashion and beauty. So why do women not hold leadership positions in brands that represent them?

Gender discrimination is not exclusive to the top posts in a company hierarchy. In a 2018 survey of fashion industry professionals conducted by the Council of Fashion Designers of America and Glamour magazine, 100 percent of female respondents said that their sex had hampered their career progression and that of their female peers. However, only half of male participants recognized that gender discrimination was holding back the careers of their female colleagues.

The gender inequality issue in fashion also seems to be getting worse. There are actually fewer women creative directors than there were 15 years ago.  Earlier this year, Jonathan Anderson took over both women's and men's Dior, replacing female designer Maria Grazia Chiuri. Similarly, when Donatella Versace stepped down from her position as Versace's creative director, Dario Vitale replaced her. The men in these positions may be talented designers, yet people can't help but wonder why women rarely keep their positions once they finally reach the top. 

Over the years, companies have taken initiatives to address the lack of diversity in fashion. Kering, a global luxury group, launched an internal program in 2010 to advance gender equality. These programs help women get hired more, but do not specifically get them in top positions. 

So, what can change this trend?

These changes need to start early on. Fashion schools and companies should invest in mentorship and leadership pipelines that actively prepare women for executive roles. Internships and entry-level jobs shouldn’t just lead to retail or PR. They should open doors to design, strategy, and creative direction.

Consumers should also be supporting women-led brands and advocating to call out bias in the industry. Visibility matters–not just on the runway, but also in top positions.

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