The Death of Durability: Inside the Knitwear Crisis

By Sheza Qasim, Senior Writer Edited by Rezi Ubogu

Around a month ago, I splurged on an $85 sweater from a popular brand that prides itself on sustainability. I decided to spend a little more than I usually would’ve because the sweater was the perfect color and so soft. Two washes later, the sweater is piling beyond expectation. I still wear it (because I paid a lot for it), but how are brands allowed to charge us upwards of $80 for sweaters and clothing that won't last?

Many “sustainable” sweaters are made with blends—organic cotton mixed with recycled polyester, or “eco” viscose combined with acrylic. These blends sound good on a tag, but they don’t always perform well in real life. Synthetic fibers, like polyester and acrylic, tend to pill more easily, and once pilling starts, it never stops. Even high-end brands rely on these cheaper fibers to cut costs and maintain soft textures, often at the expense of durability.

In the past, knitwear had better compositions. They were made with wool, cashmere, and cotton. Sweaters are still made with these materials, only less frequently. The rise of fast fashion has also added to the quality decline in not only sweaters, but also all clothing items. Even brands that claim to be sustainable are caught in the churn of fast fashion. They’re pressured to release new styles every season, meet consumer demand for affordable pricing, and maintain their margins.

As prices for good-quality materials have gone up, many brands have switched to lower-grade wool or synthetic substitutes to meet demand. Even cashmere, once synonymous with quality, is often made from shorter, cheaper fibers that shed easily. These shortcuts allow companies to market “luxury” knits at accessible prices. However, the tradeoff is durability.

Knitting yarn tighter, using better stitching, and therefore producing better quality knits all cost time and money. Sweaters have thinner fabrics and softer textures that feel luxurious in-store, yet break down after a few wears. It’s the perfect trick: the sweaters are still soft, and to less knowledgeable people, they assume they will be durable as well. Today’s knitwear is often mass-produced in factories where speed and cost take priority over craftsmanship. Even the finishing steps, like washing and setting the knit, are often rushed, which compromises how well the fibers hold together over time. The result is a garment that looks beautiful on the rack but begins to fall apart after minimal wear.

The current knitwear market is full of contradictions. Sweaters cost more than ever, yet feel cheaper than ever. The fashion industry’s obsession with sustainability has made the term almost meaningless. Words like “conscious,” “eco,” and “responsible” now function more as marketing buzzwords than standards of practice. Brands use sustainability as a selling point, plastering it across campaigns without actually improving the quality or longevity of their products. This is called greenwashing: the illusion of environmental responsibility used to justify higher prices and mask poor craftsmanship.

So, how do we get back to having better quality? 

To make sure you’re getting good quality sweaters, check the fiber content. A natural fiber, preferably made of sheep’s wool, merino wool, cotton, or cashmere, is best for a long-lasting sweater. It's not super sensible to just feel a sweater, as many may feel nice but get itchy or start pilling after one wash. 

Real sustainability probably isn’t found in the new arrivals section at all. It’s hanging on a rack at your local thrift store or listed on a secondhand app, like Depop or Poshmark. Older knits—especially wool and cotton ones from decades past—were made to last. You can find sweaters that are twenty or thirty years old and still in amazing condition. Buying secondhand not only saves clothes from the landfill, but it also sidesteps the cycle of new “eco” items that aren’t built to endure. Plus, there’s something satisfying about finding a one-of-a-kind piece that no algorithm pushed at you.

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